Touching down in Srinagar felt like entering a postcard. The vibrant city, surrounded by the majestic Himalayas and the serene Dal Lake, instantly captivated me. I headed straight to my accommodation for the duration of my stay in Srinagar – Mahatta Homestay, an elegant heritage home in the heart of the city. The Mahatta family welcomed me with open arms, making me feel like a part of their extended family. The homestay, with its wooden architecture, vintage furniture, and intricate Kashmiri art, exuded old-world charm. Each room was a blend of comfort and tradition, offering a cozy retreat after a day of exploration. I checked into my room, dropped my bags, and headed back to explore Srinagar.
The city centre is at a walkable distance of 2 km and easily accessible to the main shopping hub and the Dal Lake. I am not much of a “shopping-at-tourist-destinations” person, so I took a leisurely shikara ride on the Dal Lake instead. It did not disappoint with the floating gardens and houseboats adding a charming touch to the picturesque landscape. I ended the day with a delicious vegetarian dinner at the homestay. The warmth of the hosts and the homely atmosphere made me feel like I was staying with family.
The next day after a hearty breakfast I set out to visit the Mughal Gardens. Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh were in full bloom, with their terraced lawns and cascading fountains reflecting the grandeur of the Mughal era. The fragrance of the flowers and the sound of water created a serene ambiance.
I wandered through the old city, exploring the bustling markets and historic sites. The Jamia Masjid, with its unique wooden architecture, was particularly striking. In the evening, back at Mahatta Homestay, I enjoyed a cup of Kahwa (traditional preparation of green tea) while chatting with other guests, and exchanging travel stories and tips. The homestay’s library, filled with books on Kashmiri history and culture, was the perfect spot to unwind and learn more about the region.The following day I checked out and bid farewell to my hosts and Srinagar as I continued on my journey to Sonamarg – The Meadow of Gold.
The drive itself was a visual treat, with lush valleys, winding rivers, and snow-capped peaks at every turn. My destination was Farah’s Homestay, a charming retreat nestled amidst the meadows. The hosts greeted me with their warm smiles and a cup of hot Kahwa, which I have started to build a fond liking for. The homestay, with its cozy rooms and stunning views, felt like a home away from home. Farah’s Homestay was more than just a place to stay; it was a cultural immersion. The interiors, decorated with traditional Kashmiri handicrafts, rugs, and cushions, showcased the rich heritage of the region. I spent the afternoon exploring the nearby meadows and relaxing by the Sind River, soaking in the tranquillity of Sonamarg.
Today was all about adventure. After a hearty breakfast at the homestay, I trekked to the Thajiwas Glacier. The path, lined with wildflowers and clear streams, was incredibly scenic. Reaching the glacier, I was awestruck by the pristine ice and the majestic mountains surrounding it.
In the evening, back at the homestay, my host had organized a small gathering with local villagers. We shared stories and laughter around a bonfire, and I even tried my hand at some traditional Kashmiri dance moves. The sense of community and the warmth of the locals made it a memorable night.
My hosts suggested an offbeat adventure trek to Krishansar Lake today. The trek to the lake was challenging but rewarding, with stunning vistas at every turn. Krishansar Lake, with its crystal-clear waters reflecting the sky and mountains, was a hidden gem.Returning to the homestay, I found a delicious traditional dinner waiting for me. My hosts had prepared a delicious feast, showcasing the rich flavours of Kashmiri cuisine. The highlight was the Gustaba, a delicacy made of minced meat cooked in yogurt. The dining experience at Farah’s was always special, with meals served in a cozy dining room adorned with traditional Kashmiri décor.
The next day I ventured into the ancient village of Naranag, known for its historic ruins and natural beauty. The Naranag Temple complex, surrounded by lush forests and clear streams, was a serene and mystical place. The tranquility of the village provided a perfect backdrop for reflection and relaxation.
Near the homestay, I spent the evening learning about Kashmiri handicrafts. I tried my hand at making a small piece of paper-mâché art, guided by a local artisan. It was a delightful and enriching experience, connecting me with the local culture. The next day I set out on a scenic drive to Zojila Pass, one of the highest mountain passes in the region. It is quite famous as it was the site of the Indo-Pakistan War of 1947-48. Its breathtaking views of the rugged landscape and the thrill of the high-altitude drive were exhilarating. Standing at the pass, I felt a profound sense of awe and admiration for the natural beauty of Kashmir.
I returned to the homestay and spent my last evening in Sonamarg enjoying a quiet dinner and reflecting on my journey. The intimate setting of the homestay, combined with the personal touch of the hosts, made every moment memorable.
As my trip came to an end, I checked out early and headed back to Srinagar. I had time to spare before my flight, so I went back to the Mughal Gardens, taking in their beauty one last time. Saying goodbye to Sonamarg and Srinagar was bittersweet. The kindness of the hosts and the beauty of the landscape had left an indelible mark on my heart. As I headed to the airport, I knew I was leaving with unforgettable memories and a deep appreciation for the enchanting land of Jammu & Kashmir.
