The ones living closest often arrive late. My travel to Bhutan came much later than my explorations of distant lands like South America and Greenland. It was only in February 2023, post-pandemic, that Bhutan became a choice born of necessity.
Our seasoned itineraries to Myanmar, Iran, and Laos had become complicated due to changes in airline routes and political landscapes since the pandemic began. Bhutan entered the scene as a destination to fill a gap, a place that required not just a visit but a reimagining of an itinerary.
I had often heard people say, “You need to go to Bumthang (in the East) to see the real Bhutan.” In February 2023, I discovered how right they were.
Bhutan doesn’t lose its essence without the East, but Bumthang gives it a depth, a richness that elevates it beyond just being an extension of India’s Northeast. I understood this within the first 12 hours of landing.
Initial Discoveries
1. I didn’t want to stay in hotels where Bollywood music spilled over from adjoining rooms. I sought homes where the only soundtrack was the breeze.
2. The farther I went from popular places like Paro, Thimphu, and Punakha, the more authentic the experience felt.
3. Bhutan’s mountain roads are a joy to drive on. Covering 250 km to the East and back? Absolutely!
First Impressions
The journey begins at Bhutan’s sole runway – famously joked about as the only flat land in the country. From the moment you arrive, the smiling faces of the royal family greet you, framed in pictures at the airport and throughout your travels. It’s a warm contrast to the political banners back home in Mumbai celebrating random birthdays.
Speaking of random, several decisions on this trip were unplanned but transformative. The Dumra Farmstay was one such decision. After waking up to a beautiful river view, I found the bustling buffet breakfast scene unbearable. Hungry but restless, I checked out, and an hour later, I was atop Punakha, savoring runny eggs and fresh fruit arranged thoughtfully by Dumra’s host. The simplicity of that meal, paired with breathtaking views, reset my expectations for the journey.
Much like how Grandma Stokes’ homestay in Thanedar set the standard during our Kinnaur- Spiti-Lahaul trip, Dumra redefined stays in Bhutan. As I moved eastward, I knew exactly what I was looking for – and recognized it instantly when I found it. Whether it was the roof of Ugyen Choling emerging as I climbed Tang Valley or the charm of Soednam Zinkham in Haa Valley, every discovery felt predestined.
Bhutan: Its People and Pace
Bhutan, for us, became about its people. From the waiter at a Thimphu café recounting his transformative years in Mumbai to the teacher holding a class beneath a Cypress tree on a sunny day, the country is alive with stories.
These stories, however, reveal themselves when you slow down – when there’s no rush to get somewhere. This rhythm defined my experience, particularly in the East.
So, when Druk Air announced a new domestic route from Paro to Bumthang during my visit, it felt like a sign. A signal to return and dedicate my time solely to the East. Who knows? Perhaps I will.
Five Essential Bhutan Travel Tips
- Fly to and from Paro: Save 3-4 days of driving time from Bagdogra
- Spend time in Bumthang: Stay at least two nights in a local home
- Try your hand at archery: Learn from a local and embrace the national sport
- Discover Bhutanese cocktails: Visit a local bar in Thimphu for a taste
- Engage with locals: The most memorable stories come from conversations
